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Real Life Plumbing Advice for People Who Don't Want To Call A Plumber

How To Cut Out a Rotted Waste Nipple & Remove Old Galvanized Pipe

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In this video we’ll be cutting out a rotted waste nipple and remove old galvanized pipe.

So you reach under the kitchen sink to grab some paper towels or some dish soap and everything is soaking wet. You open up the doors to take a closer look and you notice a rust stain running down from where the waste pipe exits the cabinet.

Upon further investigation, you realize that the bottom of that nipple is all rotted out and has probably been leaking for some time. Welcome to my world guys!

You think to yourself “all I have to do is get under the sink with my trusty pipe wrench, remove and replace the offending piece of pipe, right?” Not so fast my friends…the pipe may be rotten where it connects to the “P” trap but inside the wall it’s fully intact so there is no way that piece is going to screw out. If you don’t believe me I’ll hang out a bit and wait for you to prove me wrong….

How’d it go?

I know. The reason it rotted out under the cabinet is because the nipple is galvanized iron and the trap is made of brass thus creating something called electrolysis which happens when you join two dissimilar metals together.

Over time, the iron nipple will just rot and always end up leaking.

If the piece inside the wall is screwed into a galvanized fitting, it’s fully intact and short of placing a two foot wrench on it, I can pretty much guarantee it’s not going to move.

Enough talk, watch the video as I take you step by step on how to remove offending piece.

FYI, I referenced the Sawzall blade in the video to be 18 TPI (teeth per inch) and realized after the shoot that it was in fact 10 TPI .

They’ll both work but if this is your first attempt at this I’d go with the 18. If after watching the video you still have questions you know how to reach me, info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!

Connecting The Water Supply To a Toilet Tank

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In this demonstration I feature two of the most popular methods when connecting the water supply to a toilet tank.

The flexible stainless steel model is most often seen in use today, so here’s my take on both.

The FSS models come in pre-determined lengths, generally 12″, 16″ and 20″ lengths. The 12″ length is the size most often used to connect a toilet and the 16″ and 20 ” lengths are generally used to connect faucets. Because these are of a pre-determined length, you may end up having some slack depending on the distance from the water supply up to the toilet fill valve.

For this reason, I’m not too crazy about the way they look even though they’re used every day. The one tip I can recommend is that when you tighten these be sure to hold back on the crimp rings to keep them from twisting around.

I personally prefer the solid 3/8″ chrome plated copper supply tubes which come in the same lengths but are able to be cut to the exact size you need.

All you need is a tubing cutter and in a pinch you can even use a fine tooth hack saw blade (32 teeth per inch). My tip for these is to always tighten the top first to ensure it’s seated up against the fill valve and then you can finish up and tighten the bottom.

I see all too often when changing a fill valve that when loosening the top nut, the water supply will actually drop a good 1/4″ which creates a downward strain on the fill valve.

Not good in the world of plastic fill valves as they can crack! I also think the chrome plated copper supply tubes make for a more professional looking installation in an exposed application whether it’s for a toilet or an exposed wall hung sink.

In general I use the FSS versions under cabinets where they’re out of sight.

If you’re in doubt about anything covered in this video I look forward in hearing from you! info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!

How To Install a Toilet Tank to Bowl

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This is a new video about how to install a new toilet tank onto an existing toilet bowl.

I wasn’t sure if I had mentioned removing the protective plastic wrap around the wax gasket and that’s the reason you see my arm pop up in the opening shot. Yes you have to remove the plastic covering!

Hey I’m just getting started with this video stuff, so bear with me, I promise it’ll get better.

Anyway the biggest tip I can offer you in this video is to use a small ribbon of plumbers putty just underneath the rubber gasket that sits inside the toilet tank.

Over the years I’ve had other plumbers say “what are you wasting your time for, that’s not necessary,” but I always had the last laugh when they got the call back for the leaking tank bolts.

It’s just good insurance against having to go back draining, removing and re-installing the tank. After the bolts are tightened on both sides, install your flush valve gasket and proceed to set the tank onto the bowl.

Tighten each bolt by alternating from side to side while having a level across the tank to check for level.

Once you’re satisfied it’s securely in place, connect the water supply tube to the fill valve and flush away. You want to make sure their are no leaks between the tank and bowl especially when it is flushed, I would do this several times to insure a leak free job.

That’s it guys, not too difficult to do and if you follow the steps in the video I’m confident you can do it. Any questions, feel free to drop me a line at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

Happy Plumbing!

More Toilet Repair Videos
If you need more step by step guidance, check out my free 2 part video series:
How to Remove and Intsll a Toilet Tank and Bowl – Part 1
How to Remove and Intsll a Toilet Tank and Bowl – Part 2

How To Remove and Install a Toilet Tank and Bowl – Part 2

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Welcome to part 2 of this two part series showing you how to remove and install a new toilet tank and bowl.

If you haven’t seen part 1 check it out here:
How To Remove and Install a Toilet Tank and Bowl – Part 1

It’s time to remove the wax gasket and you can do this simply by using a flat blade paint scraper or putty knife. In this video I’m working on a new P.V.C. floor flange, but if you’re working on an old lead or cast iron floor flange I would recommend you inspect it to make sure it’s in good shape before proceeding.
The wax gasket in this demo is in a protective plastic sleeve and not to confuse you; it must be removed from this sleeve before setting it in place. Some plumbers choose to place the gasket onto the male horn of the bowl before setting it into place, but I like to place down on the floor flange. I can see exactly where it’s going to sit and not worry about it accidently falling off while I’m lowering the bowl.

You don’t want to have that gasket halfway on or off the flange, which could happen if it falls off the horn. When I place the bowl down I like to rock it back and forth to set the wax gasket, let me explain why for me it might be a little tougher in the winter months.

I store the wax gaskets in my work van and here in the northeast when the temperatures drop to 30 degrees and below. They get hard as a rock.

A good tip to mention here is that I’ll fill a gallon bucket with some hot water and drop the wax gasket in to bring it back to room temperature.

Once the bowl is securely in place you’re ready to complete the installation. Check out the video for the conclusion and as always if you have questions, you may reach me at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!

How To Remove and Install a Toilet Tank and Bowl – Part 1

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This is part 1 of this two part series I walk you through the process of removing and installing a close coupled toilet tank and bowl.

Whether it’s to make a repair, clear a stoppage or install a new tank and bowl the process is the same.
Always start by shutting the water supply and then to keep the work area safe, remove any residual water from the tank and bowl. To do this I’m using a good old turkey bester and sponge which is the quickest way to get this done.

The next step would be to remove the plastic flange bolt covers and loosen the flange bolts. I’ll caution you here by saying that in most cases these bolts will have to be cut off with a hacksaw. If this happens to you just follow my instruction on how to accomplish this.

Next step is to disconnect the water supply tube from the fill valve and proceed to remove the tank and bowl.

Let’s continue in part 2, don’t go away.
How To Remove and Install a Toilet Tank and Bowl – Part 2

If you have questions, you may reach me at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!