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Real Life Plumbing Advice for People Who Don't Want To Call A Plumber

When To Use a Plastic Ferrule

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Back in the good old days coming up into the trade, every faucet or toilet I installed was with solid pipe. For faucets we would reduce the 1/2″ water supply lines to 1/4″ using reducing couplings and then we would choose from varying lengths of 1/4″ brass tailpieces to make the connection into the faucet. For toilets there was generally 3/8″ brass riser pipe which fit into the male shank of the toilet fill valve a.k.a. (ballcock). We would use the female nut supplied with the fill valve and make the connection using some ball wick.

Slowly the chrome plated copper basin and toilet supply tubes made their way into the market which frankly made life so much easier. I still use them today depending on job circumstances, but boy have times changed! Walk into any home center or plumbing supply house and ask for the parts to connect your toilet or faucet and you’ll more than likely get a flexible stainless steel supply tube. Hey that’s progress I guess and truth be told I’ll use them again depending on the job circumstances.

What I won’t use is those braided nylon water supply tubes I see all over the home centers. They are just one big accident waiting to happen and I’ve seen my fair share of them blow right out of their crimp points causing some serious water damage. DON’T USE THEM! . Enter the P.E.X. style water supply tube which to me is something a handyman might use (no offense guys) and truth is I would use them before using one of those braided plastic supply tubes.

The key in using the P.E.X. style supply tubes is to use the plastic ferrule that’s generally supplied with the tube. All to often I’ll come onto a job perhaps to install a new faucet and I discover the last guy used the metal brass ferrule designed to be use with the copper supply tubes. News Bulletin Friends! That metal ring will cut into the tube and maybe not cause a leak instantly but down the road someone is going to be the unfortunate victim of a leaking supply tube and it’ll most likely happen when they’re not home!

Take a look at the video and if you have any concerns or questions concerning P.E.X. style water supply tubes. I’d love to hear from you, I can always be reached at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING,

Bob

Basic Faucet Connecting Methods – Part 2

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If you haven’t checked out part 1 of this two-part video, now is a good time to do so. Just click here:
Basic Faucet Connecting Methods – Part 1

By now I hope you’re all familiar with the basin wrench, an essential tool for installing any faucet. In my travels, I love finding new tools (my toys), and the Basin Buddy is one such tool.

I found this in my local plumbing supply house and had to try it out. The attraction for me was that it had a small footprint, easy to store in my tool bag and it’s able to be used with most plastic lock and basin nuts found on most faucets today.

Don’t get me wrong, I always use my trusty adjustable basin wrench made by Ridgid but if you try to torque up a plastic locknut a little too much, the wings will break right off. The Basin Buddy eliminates this issue and by the way Ridgid has come out with a cool tool called the Ridgid faucet and sink installer which can perform a variety of tasks.

I shot a video about it and I encourage you to check it out. If you’re going to invest in the Baisn Buddy, just be aware you will need to use a 1/2″ or 3/8′ ratchet with an extension in order to reach up to the faucet.

Depending on which style basin connector you’re going to use, you might also need a tubing cutter. The solid chrome plated supply tube will have to be cut to size while the flexible stainless steel versions can be used as is.

I encourage you to watch both parts of this series and as always ,if you have questions please drop me a line at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!

Basic Faucet Connecting Methods – Part 1

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This is a two part video series about basic faucet connecting methods. This is video 1.

I could have gone over this in the faucet installation video, but I wanted to introduce you to the basics before you get on your back and attempt to install your own faucet.

Basically you have two materials to work with, one being the classic metal (i.e.: brass, zinc locknuts and basin nuts) and the second being plastic, which has almost become the industry standard.

Being from the “old school” of thought, I have a preference for the metal components since you can bear down on them, which will make a good tight installation.

I find that with the plastic versions, I end up damaging the nuts and locknuts by breaking off the plastic wings. In either case,

I highly recommend using a backup friction washer or “rosette.” Generally made of metal, they allow the locknuts to turn freely allowing you to get your faucet secured nice and tight.

They are a must if you’re mounting onto a cast iron sink because of the rough unfinished texture. If you leave the backup washer out, the locknut will have a difficult time turning as it starts getting tighter.

On a stainless steel sink installation you can probably get away with not using them, but in my opinion it’s just good practice to include them on every installation.

Follow me over to part 2 in this video series and learn more about basic faucet connecting methods here:
Basic Faucet Connecting Methods – Part 2

I’ll even give you my thoughts on the Basin Buddy featured in this video.

HAPPY PLUMBING!