In two previous videos “How To Connect a “P” Trap To a Kitchen Sink” and “How To Cut Out a Rotted Waste Nipple” I showed you some options on how to make the transition from the “P” Trap over to the actual sink drain. In this updated video I illustrate some more methods and materials on how to get from the drain line exiting the wall to the trap and onto to actual fixture drain.

I received a number of e-mails from followers who were still unsure of how to go about it, so I hope this will clarify the procedure a little better. To demonstrate for kitchen sink drains which are typically 2″ in diameter I mounted a pipe flange to my board simply to hold the pipe in place. The flange is not something you would see in actual field conditions, you would simply see a piece of pipe exiting the wall.

With all the modern materials available today, you’re no longer limited to one or two options anymore. Back in the day you pretty much would have to cut out and remove the leaking drain line which was very labor intensive. That’s no longer the case and you now have endless possibilities. Whether it be galvanized steel, cast iron, P.V.C or A.B.S., their is literally and connection method for each of the fore mentioned.

The one thing I think that’s important when performing these repairs is you should try and bring the fixture trap a.k.a. “P” trap as close as possible to the fixture drain. I often see the trap right up against the wall followed by crazy configurations of waste tubing connecting the drain. That waste tubing is made of very light gauge metal and in a short period of time will rot and inevitably have to be replaced.

Check out the video from start to finish and if you’re still unsure about something send your inquiry’s and photos over to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

I’d love to hear from you!
HAPPY PLUMBING!.