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Real Life Plumbing Advice for People Who Don't Want To Call A Plumber

How To Cut Out a Rotted Waste Nipple & Remove Old Galvanized Pipe

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In this video we’ll be cutting out a rotted waste nipple and remove old galvanized pipe.

So you reach under the kitchen sink to grab some paper towels or some dish soap and everything is soaking wet. You open up the doors to take a closer look and you notice a rust stain running down from where the waste pipe exits the cabinet.

Upon further investigation, you realize that the bottom of that nipple is all rotted out and has probably been leaking for some time. Welcome to my world guys!

You think to yourself “all I have to do is get under the sink with my trusty pipe wrench, remove and replace the offending piece of pipe, right?” Not so fast my friends…the pipe may be rotten where it connects to the “P” trap but inside the wall it’s fully intact so there is no way that piece is going to screw out. If you don’t believe me I’ll hang out a bit and wait for you to prove me wrong….

How’d it go?

I know. The reason it rotted out under the cabinet is because the nipple is galvanized iron and the trap is made of brass thus creating something called electrolysis which happens when you join two dissimilar metals together.

Over time, the iron nipple will just rot and always end up leaking.

If the piece inside the wall is screwed into a galvanized fitting, it’s fully intact and short of placing a two foot wrench on it, I can pretty much guarantee it’s not going to move.

Enough talk, watch the video as I take you step by step on how to remove offending piece.

FYI, I referenced the Sawzall blade in the video to be 18 TPI (teeth per inch) and realized after the shoot that it was in fact 10 TPI .

They’ll both work but if this is your first attempt at this I’d go with the 18. If after watching the video you still have questions you know how to reach me, info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!

How To Replace a Kitchen Spray Diverter or Hose

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In this video, we’ll cover how to replace a kitchen spray diverter also known as a kitchen spray hose.

Picture this… you’re preparing to clean the dishes after a splendid meal, you soaped up the dinner plates and it’s time for a quick rinse. You hit the button on the sprayer head and nothing happens, you hit it again and now the water stops coming out of the nozzle, one more time and you hear what sounds like a machine gun spraying bullets.

What’s going on?

Relax folks; this is a fairly common problem on faucets equipped with a hose and spray attachment.

The spray diverter is the likely cause of the problem and it’s a relatively easy fix.

Just as the name implies, its function is to divert the water from the nozzle out through the sprayer head when you hit the button on the back of the head.

This generally happens on older faucets (five years or older), but I’ve seen it happen on faucets that were in service less than a year.

As a general rule, the diverter is located at the base of the nozzle and you have to remove the nozzle to get to it. You would simply unscrew it and as I always recommend, take it with you to the plumbing supply or home center to match it up.

Once the new one is in place, simply replace the nozzle, hit the spray head and you should be good to go.

Now over the years I’ve run across manufacturers who have located the diverter inside the aerator where the water flows from, but the last one I saw like that was many years ago from the Valley faucet Company which no longer exists.

If you’re having such a problem with your faucet, I would recommend removing the nozzle and my bet is that the diverter will be right there sitting in the base of the faucet.

Check out the video, and if you still have questions, drop me a line at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!

Connecting a “P” Trap to a Kitchen Sink – Part Two

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Don’t forget to check out Part One in this video series about:
Connecting a “P” Trap to a Kitchen Sink – Part One

So as you’ll see in this video (part two), you have some choices when trying to get from the trap to the sink strainer.

On brand new installations, I always try to line up my tailpiece to go straight into the trap (for my master sink) without the use of any turns at all.

Truth is that in a retrofit or repair setting, that’s not always possible so the use of 90’s or 45’s is a fact of life.

If you’re going to be connecting two sinks, the use of a swing tee trap is essential when stubbing out with 2″ galvanized pipe. You can screw the trap right onto the stub out and you’re good to go.

On the other hand if you’re using PVC pipe, you can use a trap adapter to transition to the 1-1/2′ tubing or you can connect the auxiliary sink with a section of 1-1/2″ PVC pipe by installing a TY fitting right onto the PVC trap.

Fear not, I’ll feature this technique for you in a future video.

If you have the cash, I would highly recommend investing in a good quality (Ridgid) tubing cutter especially if you’re going to be doing quite a few repairs.

On the other hand, a 32 teeth per inch hack blade will get the job done.

That about wraps it up for this two part series, as always if you still have questions you can reach me at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

Happy Plumbing!

How To Connect a “P” Trap to a Kitchen Sink – Part One

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In this video I talk about making the transition from your strainer or pop-up assembly to the “P” Trap.

Many materials are available to do this, but being from the New York City area, I was taught to use and have always used the tubular brass version.

I personally also like the PVC plastic versions which I believe are virtually indestructible.

You have a couple choices when it comes to connecting a dishwasher waste hose, you can use the tailpiece with the side inlet connection or the cast brass washing machine tee which can be mounted right onto the “P” Trap.

The tubing itself is available as 90 degree elbows in lengths up to 36″, 45 degree offsets, straight flanged tailpieces, side inlet tailpieces as well as a 90 degree flanged elbow which connects directly to the sink strainer.

The water tight seal is accomplished either thru the rubber or beveled nylon washers which come as part of the fittings when you buy them.

I personally like the beveled nylon version and the key to a watertight leak-proof seal is to lubricate the threads of the fittings with waterproof silicone grease or a little Teflon based pipe joint compound.

This will allow the nuts to run up nice and tight which will make for a leak proof joint.

When you’re finished with part one, be sure to jump over to part two to see how it all gets put together here: Connecting a “P” Trap to a Kitchen Sink – Part Two

If you still have questions you can reach me at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

Happy Plumbing!

How To Pick The Right Hot and Cold Water Shut Off Valves – Part 2

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Let’s continue our 2 part video series on hot and cold water valves and let’s take a look at hot and cold water shut off valves and other types of water valves.

If you haven’t seen the first part of this video series, then check it out here:
How To Pick The Right Hot and Cold Water Valve – Part 1

Next up on the bench top is the good old globe valve. Although these valves were best suited for point of use valves (ie: for a sink, lavatory, or toilet supply), they can be found all over the entire plumbing system. Unlike a gate valve or ball valve which is full port, the globe valve has an offset water pathway whereby the water would enter at one level travel up past the valve seat and then exit.

They’re restrictive by nature and I wouldn’t recommend using them on main supply trunks or branches to individual risers in the home.

Next is the most popular and in my opinion most reliable valve out their today, the ball valve. They use a quarter turn motion are full port and utilize a stainless steel ball which rides in between two nylon seats – virtually indestructible!

These are my go to valves in most applications. The last two I feature in this video are point of use valves sometimes referred to as speedy valves or speedway valves. I use these under all my kitchen, bathroom sink and toilet supply applications. They’re inexpensive, easy to install and frankly just get the job done.

Although I’m only showing them in the i.p.s. and copper sweat versions, they are also available in compression and pex versions.

I’m not a big fan of the compression version and here in New York City, our plumbing code does not allow us to use pex tubing for domestic water use.

That’s about it for shut off valves in a residential setting, but, if you still have questions about anything I’ve covered in this videos, by all means drop me a line at info@bobsplumbing videos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!