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Real Life Plumbing Advice for People Who Don't Want To Call A Plumber

How To Install a Basic Kitchen Faucet – Part 1

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Welcome to this 2 part video series which will teach you how to install a basic kitchen deck faucet. This is the first video in this series.

I guess by now you realize that I do a good deal of my videos on my workbench to demonstrate the steps one must take before deciding to take on a plumbing repair or replacement.

With the exception of the of the grit, grime, roaches, spiders and yes the occasional frozen locknut, the steps are all the same and I feel I can present that to you much better on the bench top.

Don’t get me wrong, I will be taking you on the jobsite for certain jobs and or repairs but for this video we’re back on the bench top.

This video is all about installing a basic kitchen deck faucet and the process to remove the old one.

Although the faucet in the video does come equipped for a hose and spray attachment, I’m not featuring it other than to point out screwing in the hose before you mount the faucet to the sink.

I’ll go into detail about hose and spray attachments in a future video but in the meantime, you can check out my video on “How to replace a kitchen hose spray diverter”.

Back to faucet land, and as usual, you must shut off the water supply before disconnecting the basin supply tubes. Miss this step and be prepared for your second shower of the day!

Once the basin supplies are off, follow up with the locknuts and then you can proceed to remove the old faucet. I’ll tell you what, check out part 1 of this two-part video and I’ll catch up with you in part 2.

Click here to watch How To Install a Basic Kitchen Deck Faucet – Part 2

HAPPY PLUMBING!

Basic Faucet Connecting Methods – Part 2

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If you haven’t checked out part 1 of this two-part video, now is a good time to do so. Just click here:
Basic Faucet Connecting Methods – Part 1

By now I hope you’re all familiar with the basin wrench, an essential tool for installing any faucet. In my travels, I love finding new tools (my toys), and the Basin Buddy is one such tool.

I found this in my local plumbing supply house and had to try it out. The attraction for me was that it had a small footprint, easy to store in my tool bag and it’s able to be used with most plastic lock and basin nuts found on most faucets today.

Don’t get me wrong, I always use my trusty adjustable basin wrench made by Ridgid but if you try to torque up a plastic locknut a little too much, the wings will break right off. The Basin Buddy eliminates this issue and by the way Ridgid has come out with a cool tool called the Ridgid faucet and sink installer which can perform a variety of tasks.

I shot a video about it and I encourage you to check it out. If you’re going to invest in the Baisn Buddy, just be aware you will need to use a 1/2″ or 3/8′ ratchet with an extension in order to reach up to the faucet.

Depending on which style basin connector you’re going to use, you might also need a tubing cutter. The solid chrome plated supply tube will have to be cut to size while the flexible stainless steel versions can be used as is.

I encourage you to watch both parts of this series and as always ,if you have questions please drop me a line at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!

Basic Faucet Connecting Methods – Part 1

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This is a two part video series about basic faucet connecting methods. This is video 1.

I could have gone over this in the faucet installation video, but I wanted to introduce you to the basics before you get on your back and attempt to install your own faucet.

Basically you have two materials to work with, one being the classic metal (i.e.: brass, zinc locknuts and basin nuts) and the second being plastic, which has almost become the industry standard.

Being from the “old school” of thought, I have a preference for the metal components since you can bear down on them, which will make a good tight installation.

I find that with the plastic versions, I end up damaging the nuts and locknuts by breaking off the plastic wings. In either case,

I highly recommend using a backup friction washer or “rosette.” Generally made of metal, they allow the locknuts to turn freely allowing you to get your faucet secured nice and tight.

They are a must if you’re mounting onto a cast iron sink because of the rough unfinished texture. If you leave the backup washer out, the locknut will have a difficult time turning as it starts getting tighter.

On a stainless steel sink installation you can probably get away with not using them, but in my opinion it’s just good practice to include them on every installation.

Follow me over to part 2 in this video series and learn more about basic faucet connecting methods here:
Basic Faucet Connecting Methods – Part 2

I’ll even give you my thoughts on the Basin Buddy featured in this video.

HAPPY PLUMBING!

Connecting Different Pipe Materials Part.2

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Welcome to the second video of the two part video series about connecting different pipe materials.
If you haven’t seen video 1 then check it out here:
Connecting Different Pipe Materials – Part 1

As you can see in this video, these clamps have many different applications. In the old days we were faced with having to find the next junction between the pipe and a fitting before we could make a repair.

In a lot of these cases this meant having to break up a customer’s home (bathroom or kitchen) to find where we could make the repair.

Today we simply cut the pipe, use the appropriate clamp and we’re in business. SWEET! Is there a down side to using these innovations?

I think not, but I must give you my opinion on how I see these being used in the field. Just because it’s become faster and easier to perform installation and repairs, it does not eliminate the need to follow good solid workmanship technique.

As with copper tubing, anyone who bought a torch and a roll of solder instantly thought they were a plumber. Likewise with no-hub and frenco couplings, just because you can torqe up a couple of stainless steel bands doesn’t mean you’re a craftsman.

I see nightmares out in the field in terms of workmanship and safety and my advice to anyone who is considering doing a large scale plumbing job using service weight cast iron pipe and no-hub couplings is this:

Make sure you support it both vertically and horizontally at the code approved intervals.
You can check with your local buildings department or go online for this information.

Think about it, service weight cast iron is still heavy duty material and now we’re holding it together with a stainless steel band and rubber gaskets (a.k.a. band-aid).

You have to support it properly or you’ll end up with a nightmare on your hands.

Forgive me for my rant, now back to repair land and the fact that these couplings have made the trade of plumbing a little more pleasurable.

The blue and orange versions in the video are called Husky couplings and because of the four-band configuration, they make a premium installation.

Again the orange version uses a 3/8″ nut and requires an 80 inch lb torque wrench as opposed to the standard 5/16″ nut and 60 in lb. torque wrench.

Either way I think you’ll agree these are worth checking out the next time you’re considering a home plumbing repair.

Thanks for watching and as always I can be reached at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!

Connecting Different Pipe Materials Part.1

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Welcome to the first video of the two part video series about connecting different pipe materials.

Up until the late 1970’s, we were still required by New York City Plumbing Code to use extra-heavy cast iron bell and spigot pipe for building house drains and soil stacks. Extremely labor intensive and just plain hard work with, you had to be in extremely good physical condition to perform this type of work.
To this day I still wonder how I did it! When no-hub service weight cast iron pipe was finally permitted, it changed everything. The material itself was less expensive than its predecessor and the labor savings was astonishing.

Instead of packing a joint with oakum and pouring hot lead to form the joints, it was now done with what we call no-hub couplings. A simple neoprene inner gasket followed by an outer stainless steel corrugated band which included two band style straps that get tightened to 60 inch pounds of torque.

Compared to the old way of doing things, this was a cake walk. Not only was fabricating house drains and soil stacks a breeze, but the manufacturers started making specialty clamps that you could use to connect different pipe materials.

Different pipe materials all have slightly different diameters and these specialty clamps compensated for the difference making the installation bullet proof.

I’ll tell you what, check out part 1 of this two-part video series above and I’ll catch up with you in part 2.

Thanks for watching and as always I can be reached at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

If you want to skip ahead and watch part 2, then click here:
Connecting Different Pipe Materials – Part 2

HAPPY PLUMBING!