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Real Life Plumbing Advice for People Who Don't Want To Call A Plumber

Connecting a “P” Trap to a Kitchen Sink – Part Two

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Don’t forget to check out Part One in this video series about:
Connecting a “P” Trap to a Kitchen Sink – Part One

So as you’ll see in this video (part two), you have some choices when trying to get from the trap to the sink strainer.

On brand new installations, I always try to line up my tailpiece to go straight into the trap (for my master sink) without the use of any turns at all.

Truth is that in a retrofit or repair setting, that’s not always possible so the use of 90’s or 45’s is a fact of life.

If you’re going to be connecting two sinks, the use of a swing tee trap is essential when stubbing out with 2″ galvanized pipe. You can screw the trap right onto the stub out and you’re good to go.

On the other hand if you’re using PVC pipe, you can use a trap adapter to transition to the 1-1/2′ tubing or you can connect the auxiliary sink with a section of 1-1/2″ PVC pipe by installing a TY fitting right onto the PVC trap.

Fear not, I’ll feature this technique for you in a future video.

If you have the cash, I would highly recommend investing in a good quality (Ridgid) tubing cutter especially if you’re going to be doing quite a few repairs.

On the other hand, a 32 teeth per inch hack blade will get the job done.

That about wraps it up for this two part series, as always if you still have questions you can reach me at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

Happy Plumbing!

How To Connect a “P” Trap to a Kitchen Sink – Part One

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In this video I talk about making the transition from your strainer or pop-up assembly to the “P” Trap.

Many materials are available to do this, but being from the New York City area, I was taught to use and have always used the tubular brass version.

I personally also like the PVC plastic versions which I believe are virtually indestructible.

You have a couple choices when it comes to connecting a dishwasher waste hose, you can use the tailpiece with the side inlet connection or the cast brass washing machine tee which can be mounted right onto the “P” Trap.

The tubing itself is available as 90 degree elbows in lengths up to 36″, 45 degree offsets, straight flanged tailpieces, side inlet tailpieces as well as a 90 degree flanged elbow which connects directly to the sink strainer.

The water tight seal is accomplished either thru the rubber or beveled nylon washers which come as part of the fittings when you buy them.

I personally like the beveled nylon version and the key to a watertight leak-proof seal is to lubricate the threads of the fittings with waterproof silicone grease or a little Teflon based pipe joint compound.

This will allow the nuts to run up nice and tight which will make for a leak proof joint.

When you’re finished with part one, be sure to jump over to part two to see how it all gets put together here: Connecting a “P” Trap to a Kitchen Sink – Part Two

If you still have questions you can reach me at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

Happy Plumbing!

How To Pick The Right Hot and Cold Water Shut Off Valves – Part 2

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Let’s continue our 2 part video series on hot and cold water valves and let’s take a look at hot and cold water shut off valves and other types of water valves.

If you haven’t seen the first part of this video series, then check it out here:
How To Pick The Right Hot and Cold Water Valve – Part 1

Next up on the bench top is the good old globe valve. Although these valves were best suited for point of use valves (ie: for a sink, lavatory, or toilet supply), they can be found all over the entire plumbing system. Unlike a gate valve or ball valve which is full port, the globe valve has an offset water pathway whereby the water would enter at one level travel up past the valve seat and then exit.

They’re restrictive by nature and I wouldn’t recommend using them on main supply trunks or branches to individual risers in the home.

Next is the most popular and in my opinion most reliable valve out their today, the ball valve. They use a quarter turn motion are full port and utilize a stainless steel ball which rides in between two nylon seats – virtually indestructible!

These are my go to valves in most applications. The last two I feature in this video are point of use valves sometimes referred to as speedy valves or speedway valves. I use these under all my kitchen, bathroom sink and toilet supply applications. They’re inexpensive, easy to install and frankly just get the job done.

Although I’m only showing them in the i.p.s. and copper sweat versions, they are also available in compression and pex versions.

I’m not a big fan of the compression version and here in New York City, our plumbing code does not allow us to use pex tubing for domestic water use.

That’s about it for shut off valves in a residential setting, but, if you still have questions about anything I’ve covered in this videos, by all means drop me a line at info@bobsplumbing videos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!

How To Pick The Right Hot and Cold Water Valve – Part 1

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Another benchtop demonstration? Absolutely!

That’s the best way, in my opinion, to show you how to pick the correct hot and cold water valves.

If you can grasp what I’m showing you here, the concept holds true no matter what setting you find yourself in.

As far a shut off valves go it’s my opinion that the ones featured in this video are among the most popular you’ll find in the feild. Don’t get me wrong, there are many connecting methods out there (i.e.: compression, pex, pro-press etc.) but I guarantee the ones on my bench are the ones most commonly found.

Starting with the good old gate valve featured on the left, this valve is most commonly found on the water service that enters your home. They’re full port when fully opened but the problem with this valve as well as with all valves in general is that they’re seldom, if ever, used by the homeowner. They sit there for ten to twenty years or longer, and when that first emergency occurs, panic sets in. In an emergency you’ll grab onto them and in many cases they’re frozen in the open position so you keep forcing them in an effort to shut off the water and bingo the valve breaks.

Now what do you do?

Well if it’s any valve other that the main water supply valve entering the home you could be adventurous and attempt to disassemble the valve and remove the broken gate, but if you want my opinion it’s probably time to call in a pro.

Don’t feel bad, I’ve been in many situations where I’ve had to shut the main water supply and have broken the gates in the closed position (ouch!)

Back in the day I would go get some dry ice and actually freeze the main water supply so I could remove the broken valve and Install a brand new one.

Although we have modern methods of freezing a water main today, the dry ice method never let me down.

The point here is just be careful, if the valve doesn’t move, don’t force it and when in doubt, call in a pro.

If you have questions about anything I’ve covered in this videos, by all means drop me a line at info@bobsplumbing videos.com.

Meet me over in part two of this series where I’ll go over the other valves featured in the video:
How To Pick The Right Hot and Cold Water Shut Off Valves – Part 2

HAPPY PLUMBING!

Connecting The Water Supply To a Toilet Tank

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In this demonstration I feature two of the most popular methods when connecting the water supply to a toilet tank.

The flexible stainless steel model is most often seen in use today, so here’s my take on both.

The FSS models come in pre-determined lengths, generally 12″, 16″ and 20″ lengths. The 12″ length is the size most often used to connect a toilet and the 16″ and 20 ” lengths are generally used to connect faucets. Because these are of a pre-determined length, you may end up having some slack depending on the distance from the water supply up to the toilet fill valve.

For this reason, I’m not too crazy about the way they look even though they’re used every day. The one tip I can recommend is that when you tighten these be sure to hold back on the crimp rings to keep them from twisting around.

I personally prefer the solid 3/8″ chrome plated copper supply tubes which come in the same lengths but are able to be cut to the exact size you need.

All you need is a tubing cutter and in a pinch you can even use a fine tooth hack saw blade (32 teeth per inch). My tip for these is to always tighten the top first to ensure it’s seated up against the fill valve and then you can finish up and tighten the bottom.

I see all too often when changing a fill valve that when loosening the top nut, the water supply will actually drop a good 1/4″ which creates a downward strain on the fill valve.

Not good in the world of plastic fill valves as they can crack! I also think the chrome plated copper supply tubes make for a more professional looking installation in an exposed application whether it’s for a toilet or an exposed wall hung sink.

In general I use the FSS versions under cabinets where they’re out of sight.

If you’re in doubt about anything covered in this video I look forward in hearing from you! info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!