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Real Life Plumbing Advice for People Who Don't Want To Call A Plumber

Basic Faucet Connecting Methods – Part 1

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This is a two part video series about basic faucet connecting methods. This is video 1.

I could have gone over this in the faucet installation video, but I wanted to introduce you to the basics before you get on your back and attempt to install your own faucet.

Basically you have two materials to work with, one being the classic metal (i.e.: brass, zinc locknuts and basin nuts) and the second being plastic, which has almost become the industry standard.

Being from the “old school” of thought, I have a preference for the metal components since you can bear down on them, which will make a good tight installation.

I find that with the plastic versions, I end up damaging the nuts and locknuts by breaking off the plastic wings. In either case,

I highly recommend using a backup friction washer or “rosette.” Generally made of metal, they allow the locknuts to turn freely allowing you to get your faucet secured nice and tight.

They are a must if you’re mounting onto a cast iron sink because of the rough unfinished texture. If you leave the backup washer out, the locknut will have a difficult time turning as it starts getting tighter.

On a stainless steel sink installation you can probably get away with not using them, but in my opinion it’s just good practice to include them on every installation.

Follow me over to part 2 in this video series and learn more about basic faucet connecting methods here:
Basic Faucet Connecting Methods – Part 2

I’ll even give you my thoughts on the Basin Buddy featured in this video.

HAPPY PLUMBING!

Connecting Different Pipe Materials Part.2

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Welcome to the second video of the two part video series about connecting different pipe materials.
If you haven’t seen video 1 then check it out here:
Connecting Different Pipe Materials – Part 1

As you can see in this video, these clamps have many different applications. In the old days we were faced with having to find the next junction between the pipe and a fitting before we could make a repair.

In a lot of these cases this meant having to break up a customer’s home (bathroom or kitchen) to find where we could make the repair.

Today we simply cut the pipe, use the appropriate clamp and we’re in business. SWEET! Is there a down side to using these innovations?

I think not, but I must give you my opinion on how I see these being used in the field. Just because it’s become faster and easier to perform installation and repairs, it does not eliminate the need to follow good solid workmanship technique.

As with copper tubing, anyone who bought a torch and a roll of solder instantly thought they were a plumber. Likewise with no-hub and frenco couplings, just because you can torqe up a couple of stainless steel bands doesn’t mean you’re a craftsman.

I see nightmares out in the field in terms of workmanship and safety and my advice to anyone who is considering doing a large scale plumbing job using service weight cast iron pipe and no-hub couplings is this:

Make sure you support it both vertically and horizontally at the code approved intervals.
You can check with your local buildings department or go online for this information.

Think about it, service weight cast iron is still heavy duty material and now we’re holding it together with a stainless steel band and rubber gaskets (a.k.a. band-aid).

You have to support it properly or you’ll end up with a nightmare on your hands.

Forgive me for my rant, now back to repair land and the fact that these couplings have made the trade of plumbing a little more pleasurable.

The blue and orange versions in the video are called Husky couplings and because of the four-band configuration, they make a premium installation.

Again the orange version uses a 3/8″ nut and requires an 80 inch lb torque wrench as opposed to the standard 5/16″ nut and 60 in lb. torque wrench.

Either way I think you’ll agree these are worth checking out the next time you’re considering a home plumbing repair.

Thanks for watching and as always I can be reached at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!

Connecting Different Pipe Materials Part.1

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Welcome to the first video of the two part video series about connecting different pipe materials.

Up until the late 1970’s, we were still required by New York City Plumbing Code to use extra-heavy cast iron bell and spigot pipe for building house drains and soil stacks. Extremely labor intensive and just plain hard work with, you had to be in extremely good physical condition to perform this type of work.
To this day I still wonder how I did it! When no-hub service weight cast iron pipe was finally permitted, it changed everything. The material itself was less expensive than its predecessor and the labor savings was astonishing.

Instead of packing a joint with oakum and pouring hot lead to form the joints, it was now done with what we call no-hub couplings. A simple neoprene inner gasket followed by an outer stainless steel corrugated band which included two band style straps that get tightened to 60 inch pounds of torque.

Compared to the old way of doing things, this was a cake walk. Not only was fabricating house drains and soil stacks a breeze, but the manufacturers started making specialty clamps that you could use to connect different pipe materials.

Different pipe materials all have slightly different diameters and these specialty clamps compensated for the difference making the installation bullet proof.

I’ll tell you what, check out part 1 of this two-part video series above and I’ll catch up with you in part 2.

Thanks for watching and as always I can be reached at info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

If you want to skip ahead and watch part 2, then click here:
Connecting Different Pipe Materials – Part 2

HAPPY PLUMBING!

How To Choose The Right Emergency Water Shut-Off Valve

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So in this video I go over how to choose the right emergency water shut-off valve. I’ll show you a couple of different options.

Everyone should have these near their kitchen and bathroom sinks as well as by their toilets. They are your only safeguard in a true water emergency so I highly recommend you test them and if they don’t hold, REPLACE THEM!

The most popular ones I use are the I.P.S and copper versions which are available in straight, angle and dual port versions. They’re available with washers or as 1/4 turn ball type valves. They have a compression version which could come in handy, for instance, when working on copper pipe and you can’t get a 100% shut down of the water.

In this case you wouldn’t be able to solder but you can pop one of these on tighten it up with your adjustable wrench and you’re good to go.

They’re available in P.E.X and push type (SharkBite) versions which I don’t show in the video only because here in New York they’re not currently code approved.

All of them are available as straight, angle, dual port, washer type and ball type so you have many choices. The dual port valves are pretty cool because you can control two appliances with one valve.

On the other hand if you have to shut down one of them, you’re going to have two appliances out of service.

Check out the video and if you have questions, as always info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

HAPPY PLUMBING!

Choosing The Right P.V.C. Floor Flange – Toilet Repairs

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In this video I help you choose the right PVC floor flanges for your toilet. I focus on two popular floor flanges that are available if you’re using PVC pipe.

The sizes of these flanges are 4″x3″ and would be used with 3″ diameter waste lines.

There are many variations of PVC floor flanges which are available in both 3″ and 4″ diameters.

The one in the video with the blue adjustable flange ring is a no brainer because you can glue the flange onto the pipe and then adjust the ring for the flange bolt location.

The solid PVC flange is quite different in that you must pre-locate where the flange bolts will be located before you glue it into place.

If you miss this step you’ll have to start all over, so be aware and mark the bolt locations before you glue. The adjustable version is available in stainless steel, PVC as well as the painted steel version in the video. They’re also available for ABS pipe as well.

I personally like the flange that you can glue into the drain pipe. You just bring your drain pipe flush with the finished floor, set the flange and you’re finished.

With other versions you have to do some pre planning before you glue because with PVC you get one opportunity to get it right.

There are many other cool PVC floor flange choices available which I’ll cover in detail in a future video but for now I hope you have a better understanding of the two featured in this video.

Fact is, in the New York City area the two most popular waste line materials are extra heavy and no-hub cast iron pipe.

Cast iron toilet bends and lead toilet bends are still the most commonly found in this area.

If you’re unsure about anything covered in this video, please send an e-mail to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.

I look forward to your questions.

HAPPY PLUMBING!